Chateau Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, 2007

The biodynamic pioneer of classified Bordeaux, eighteen years on. Pontet-Canet is the 5th Growth Pauillac that has performed at 2nd Growth level for decades — owned by the Tesseron family since 1975 and farmed biodynamically since the late 2000s, earning organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Biodyvin) certification in 2010 as the first 1855 classified estate to do so; Demeter certification followed in 2014. 2007 was a difficult Bordeaux vintage, cool and wet, and even the top Pauillacs came out leaner than their reputation. But this is exactly the kind of bottle that rewards patience: Pontet-Canet's rigorous selection, its deep gravels, and the unusually thoughtful farming have all produced a wine that has aged with grace and grown into earthy, savory complexity. Cassis softened to dried currant, cedar pencil, graphite, sweet tobacco, forest floor, leather. Tannins resolved, finish long and classical. Drink over the next several years.