Domaine de Montbourgeau, Cremant du Jura, NV

From L'Etoile, the star, one of the tiniest appellations in France, named for the star-shaped fossils buried in its ancient seabed soils. Domaine de Montbourgeau was founded a century ago and is famed for its complex Jura whites, but this white sparkler might be the smartest buy in the house. It's all Chardonnay from the estate's younger vines, grown on clay and limestone and bottled with zero dosage, so nothing gets in the way of that chalky, saline drive. Fine mousse, orchard fruit, real mineral cut: it drinks like fine Blanc de Blancs Champagne without asking for a special occasion.