Domaine Labet, Cremant Rose, 2022

Pinot Noir has deep roots in the Jura - the region faces Burgundy across the valley and shares plenty of the same Jurassic limestone and marl - and Domaine Labet turns theirs into a rose Cremant that lands about as far from poolside frivolity as pink bubbles can get. It's light-bodied and completely dry, built on tension rather than sweetness: wild strawberry and red currant, a chalky snap, a fine persistent bead. The Labet family farms small parcels around Rotalier in the southern Jura with the same obsessiveness they bring to their still whites, and the definition here shows it. Serve it cold, in a real glass, with something salty on the table. Or on its own, which is likely how it will go.