Domaine Servin, Chablis 'Les Pargues', 2023

Les Pargues sits right between the premier crus Vaillons and Montmains, and back in the 19th century it was rated their equal. Its owners were just slow to replant after phylloxera, so it missed the cut when the premier cru lines were drawn, leaving Servin with a village Chablis of near-premier-cru pedigree. The wine is hand-harvested and raised entirely in stainless steel, keeping it bright and classically mineral with no oak in the way. The 2023 is a riper, rounder vintage, so this drinks with a caressing, generous feel while holding onto that wet-stone Chablis backbone. A quiet overachiever from a great address.