Elio Sandri, Barolo Perno, 2019

Elio Sandri is one of Barolo's most coveted traditionalists, farming 7.5 hectares at Cascina Disa in the Perno cru of Monforte d'Alba, where he lives and works on-site. He makes wine the old way: cement fermentation, long aging in big Slavonian botti, no fining, no filtration, sulfur only at bottling. This is his straight Barolo Perno from the strong 2019 vintage, Nebbiolo at its truest, both exuberant and austere. With only a few thousand bottles made each year, this is one to grab when you see it.