Elio Sandri, Barolo Perno Riserva, 2019

Elio Sandri is one of Barolo's most coveted traditionalists, farming 7.5 hectares at Cascina Disa in the Perno cru of Monforte d'Alba, living and making wine on-site. He works the old way: fermentation in cement, long aging in enormous Slavonian botti, no fining, no filtration, sulfur only at bottling. This Perno Riserva from the celebrated 2019 vintage is Nebbiolo at its most resonant, both exuberant and austere, built for the long haul. With only a few thousand bottles made each year, wines like this disappear fast.