Goofy Bandit, Goofy Vermouthy New York Vermouth, NV

The name tells you the posture: this is vermouth with the stuffing knocked out of it. It's made in New York — wine, fortified and steeped with botanicals, following the old aperitif formula without much interest in anybody's rulebook. Herbal and aromatic, built around wormwood's gentle bitterness, it's the kind of bottle that earns its keep both on the bar cart and in the fridge door. Drink it cold over ice with a twist, lengthen it with soda, or stir it into whatever cocktail you had in mind. One honest reminder: vermouth is wine at heart, so keep it refrigerated once opened and finish it within a month.