I Custodi (Salvo Foti), Etna Rosso 'Pistus', 2022

Pistus means "pounded," a nod to the rough-and-ready wine Etna's farmers once crushed for their own tables, and I Custodi keep that spirit intact. This is the everyday Etna red in the range: Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from organic vines on the volcano's northern slope at 700 meters. No oak, just a short stint in steel and a few months in bottle, so the fruit stays juicy and the wild edge stays sharp. It's the most affordable and most produced wine the estate makes, which is exactly why it's such a great introduction to the mountain. Pour it slightly chilled and it practically drinks itself.