Miani, Chardonnay, 2023 (1.5L)

Miani is one of Italy's true cult addresses, an allocation-only estate where Enzo Pontoni farms tiny plots by hand and bottles fewer than 700 cases in a strong year. This is his classic Chardonnay, the house expression rather than a named single vineyard, grown on the marl-and-sandstone ponca soils of Colli Orientali del Friuli. Even in its more approachable form, the low yields and obsessive farming show up as concentration and drive. Here it comes in magnum, the format collectors chase for slower, more graceful aging. A serious white from a grower who simply won't compromise.