Miani, Chardonnay Baracca, 2022

Enzo Pontoni farms fewer than 700 cases across all of Miani in a good year, which is why these bottles vanish the moment they land. Baracca is one of his single-vineyard Chardonnays, drawn from vines over 60 years old rooted in Friuli's ancient ponca marl. Yields here are punishingly low, and the result is a white of uncommon depth and layered power that still reads as bright and nuanced rather than heavy. This is Chardonnay treated the way great white Burgundy is treated: as an expression of one patch of dirt, farmed obsessively by a grower who refuses to scale up. If you find a bottle, don't overthink it.