Miani, Rosso Miani, 2022

Everyone talks about Miani's whites. The red is the sleeper. Enzo Pontoni built his reputation on Sauvignon and Friulano, but he farms his red grapes with exactly the same ferocity: hand-worked ponca hillsides in the Colli Orientali and yields cut to a level most growers would consider reckless. Rosso Miani is his red blend, and it is built on the same principle as the whites, which is concentration first and then the structure to carry it. Expect dark fruit, tobacco leaf, a graphite-and-earth streak and tannins that are firm but polished. It is still young, so decant it generously or put it away and let the edges soften. These bottles reached us from a private cellar.