Miani, Sauvignon Blanc Zitelle, 2023

Zitelle is one of the vineyards that made people rethink what Sauvignon could be in Italy. Miani's single-vineyard Sauvignons are among the most chased-after whites in the country, made in quantities that barely qualify as commercial, and Zitelle is a steep parcel of ponca marl and sandstone farmed by Enzo Pontoni with a level of obsession that borders on the medical. What comes out is Sauvignon with muscle, not the zippy green version: ripe stone fruit, elderflower, crushed rock, and a long saline finish with real weight behind it. Barrel work adds texture rather than any obvious oak flavor. Serve it in a big glass and only lightly chilled, because cold shuts it down. It is an infant right now, and it will repay patience handsomely. From a private cellar.