Montevertine, Pergole Torte, 2022 (3L)

Pergole Torte is one of the great Sangioveses of Tuscany — Sergio Manetti's renegade 1977 declaration that pure Sangiovese deserved its own pedestal, made now by his grandson Martino at the Montevertine estate in Radda. The 2022 is widely considered the standout of a warm-but-balanced Chianti vintage, with phenolic ripeness, freshness, and great aromatic richness; raised in a combination of large botte and barrique. This is the three-liter, jeroboam format — the size that ages slowest and most gracefully, the format collectors hunt for milestone bottlings. A wine to put down for two or three decades and break out for a wedding, a fiftieth, or a quiet table of people who will know what they're drinking.