Peter Leipold, Pinot Noir Grand Cru, 2023

This is the top of Peter Leipold's Pinot Noir pyramid, and it wears its Burgundy training openly. Fruit comes from a single southwest-facing plot of Muschelkalk limestone in Franken, fermented with wild yeast, partly whole-cluster, then aged in French oak that includes old barrels sourced from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Gravity-fed, unfined, unfiltered, with barely any sulfur added. 'Grand Cru' isn't an official title here, it's Leipold's own shorthand for his best bottling, and the wine backs it up with real depth and finesse. Serious German Pinot from a producer worth following closely.