Peter Leipold, Silvaner Gassberg Grand Cru Trocken, 2023

If you want to taste limestone in a glass, start here. The Gassberg is a limestone-riddled vineyard, and Peter Leipold's Grand Cru Silvaner from it is all salt and stone and linear precision. This is one of two top single-site Silvaners he makes, deliberately paired against his sandstone bottling to show how radically soil shapes the same grape. Leipold is a young grower in Franken with a serious pedigree and a light touch in the cellar. Bone-dry, mineral, and cut like glass, this is Silvaner as a soil transmitter.