R Pouillon et Fils, Champagne Extra Brut Grande Vallee (Base 2021), NV

A terroir-driven grower Champagne from Fabrice Pouillon, the third-generation, organically-minded vigneron of Mareuil-sur-Ay. Grande Vallee is his Pinot Noir-dominant cuvee, named for the stretch of the Marne valley his family farms, and it's partially fermented in oak for added depth and breadth. Finished as an Extra Brut with only a whisper of dosage, it shows the wine-driven, structured side of Champagne rather than the simply festive one. Built on the 2021 base, it's a serious, chalk-driven bottle that drinks like fine wine with bubbles.