Barbichette, Le Rouge, 2024

Barbichette is a small natural-wine operation on Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes, run by Louisiane Remy and Cesar Vega, who farm organically and work about as hands-off as it gets: manual methods, no added sulfites, no commercial yeast, no filtration. Le Rouge is their everyday red, and it drinks exactly the way you'd hope a Finger Lakes natural red would. Bright and fresh, with cherry and cranberry over a little toffee warmth, it finishes crisp and mouthwatering. This is New York wine made with conviction. Pour it slightly cool.