Bodegas Los Bermejos, Lanzarote Rosado Brut Nature, 2023

Bodegas Los Bermejos is best known for one of our favorite still rosados year after year, but this is a different animal: a traditional-method sparkler from the same Listan Negro grape, aged a full year on its lees and finished bone-dry as a Brut Nature. On the volcanic island of Lanzarote, vines grow in craters dug through meters of lava and ash, ringed by stone walls against the relentless wind, and yields are tiny. That hard-won fruit gives a pale salmon-pink fizz that lands at the fruitier, friendlier end of the dry spectrum, all crunchy red berries and a savory volcanic edge. A delicious, surprising bubbly with serious island character.