Bodegas Vinatigo, Tenerife Blanco Lomo de la Era, 2023

Bodegas Vinatigo is the engine of the Canary Islands wine revival, founded by Juan Jesus Mendez Siverio, who has spent decades rescuing the islands' indigenous grapes. Lomo de la Era is a single-site white that digs deeper into Tenerife's volcanic terroir, with more concentration and texture than the entry-level bottlings. From northern Tenerife's black volcanic soils, it shows the saline, mineral intensity that puts Canary whites in a category of their own. A small-production wine worth seeking out.