Celine et Vincent Dureuil (Dureuil-Janthial), Mercurey Rouge, 2023

Mercurey sits just next door to Rully, and a Dureuil-Janthial Mercurey gives you a glimpse of the slightly bigger, slightly more structured side of the Côte Chalonnaise from one of the appellation's reference producers. Céline and Vincent farm organically across roughly twenty hectares, working by hand and reading the lunar calendar, and the wines feel like it: precise, transparent, and built around the fruit rather than around the cellar. The 2023 leans on Mercurey's signature darker-toned cherry and earthy spice, with more grip than the Rully but the same clarity and energy. A serious Pinot that drinks beautifully young, and ages with the patient grace you'd expect from a top Côte d'Or village.