Chateau Yvonne, Saumur Champigny, 2023

Château Yvonne's Saumur Champigny shows what biodynamic Cabernet Franc looks like when it grows in limestone. Mathieu Vallée's red is a different creature from the wines of Chinon or Bourgueil: lighter-footed, more floral, with the transparency that tuffeau terroir delivers to everything it touches. It is a red for those who love Burgundy's elegant register but want something entirely Loire in character — herbal, mineral, and built for food. The 2023 vintage in the Loire was bright and relatively generous; this one hits its stride early and rewards a slight chill on warm nights.