COS, Pithos Rosso di Vittoria, 2023

COS helped write the modern Sicilian playbook, and Pithos Rosso is their most elemental wine. This is the red from the Cerasuolo di Vittoria zone in southeastern Sicily, a blend of Nero d'Avola and Frappato fermented and aged in unlined terracotta amphorae buried in the ground (pithos is Greek for the vessel). The clay adds nothing but a gentle breathing, so the fruit comes through pure and unmasked. Farming is organic and biodynamic, fermentation runs on wild yeasts, and sulfur is kept to a whisper. The result is a bright, savory, faintly wild red with real energy. Serve it with a slight chill and don't be afraid to bring it to the table with anything from pizza to grilled fish.