Domaine Clos de la Chapelle, Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, 2023

If you want to understand why Mark O'Connell's American-led, Burgundy-based Clos de la Chapelle keeps turning up on serious wine lists, this is the cuvee that explains it. Charmes is one of Meursault's most famous 1er Crus, sitting on the gentle lower slope with Perrieres above it and Genevrieres to its north, and it traditionally gives a wine that splits the difference between Meursault's classic richness and a more crystalline, mineral lift. The 2023 from this organically and biodynamically farmed five-hectare estate is a textbook expression: a perfumed nose of white peach, lemon curd, and crushed almond opens to a palate that is creamy yet driven, with cool stone definition underneath the orchard fruit and a long, saline finish. Built for the cellar but already gorgeous with a little air.