Domaine de la Grosse Pierre, Chiroubles 'Aux Craz', 2024

Pauline Passot took over her family's Chiroubles domaine and immediately became Beaujolais' rookie of the year, turning out some of the freshest, prettiest cru Gamay around. Chiroubles is the criminally underrated cru that happens to be the highest in elevation, and 'Aux Craz' comes from her steepest, coolest site, around 460 meters up on decomposed pink granite, from vines pushing 70 years old. Passot works the way you'd hope: semi-carbonic, native yeasts, barely any sulfur, aged in concrete to keep everything bright and unadorned. The 2024 was a cold, wet, brutally small vintage, which makes these silky, floral, mineral-driven wines all the more precious. This is elegance and altitude in a glass.