Domaine Filliatreau, Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes, 2005

Domaine Filliatreau is the name that put Saumur-Champigny on the map — Paul Filliatreau's work with Cabernet Franc in the 1960s and '70s single-handedly redefined what this Loire appellation could be, and the Vieilles Vignes is the bottling that made the case. The fruit comes from old-vine parcels around the historic hamlet of Chaintres, on shallow soils over Turonian tuffeau chalk, which gives the wine its trademark mineral lift and freshness. This is the 2005, a great, ripe Loire vintage now showing the savory, tertiary side that aged Cabernet Franc does so well. A rare chance to drink mature Loire red from a benchmark address — decant it and pair it with something earthy.