Domaine Guiberteau, Saumur Rouge, 2023

Romain Guiberteau abandoned law school in 1996 to take over his family's vineyards in Saumur—and was mentored by Nady Foucault of Clos Rougeard, arguably the Loire's most legendary Cabernet Franc producer. That apprenticeship shows in every bottle. The domaine farms prime parcels on the hill of Brézé, including the Clos des Carmes—classified by the legendary gastronome Curnonsky among the "Très Grands Vins de Saumur." Certified organic since 2007, with all harvesting done by hand. The Saumur Rouge is one hundred percent Cabernet Franc from sandy clay-limestone over limestone bedrock, destemmed with short maceration, fermented with ambient yeast in concrete and stainless steel, and aged six months without oak. The 2023 was a challenging Loire vintage of heat waves and humidity, but Guiberteau's careful farming delivered supple tannins with crisp red fruit, violets, and the pencil-shaving minerality that defines great Saumur. Drink now or over the next five years.