Lafarge-Vial, Fleurie Joie du Palais, 2016
Volnay royalty making cru Beaujolais. Frederic Lafarge, of the legendary Domaine Michel Lafarge, and his wife Chantal Vial set up shop in Beaujolais about a decade ago, close enough to home that they farm and vinify it hands-on with the same organic and biodynamic rigor they bring to their grand Volnay reds. Joie du Palais comes from a high-altitude parcel of nearly 70-year-old vines on crumbly pink granite, a third of it so steep it has to be plowed by horse. The result is cru Gamay with a Burgundian accent: elegant, silky, and closer to Pinot than most Beaujolais dares to be. This 2016 needed a few years to unwind and is now sitting in a lovely, mature sweet spot. Drink it for a fraction of what the family's Volnay commands.
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Volnay royalty making cru Beaujolais. Frederic Lafarge, of the legendary Domaine Michel Lafarge, and his wife Chantal Vial set up shop in Beaujolais about a decade ago, close enough to home that they farm and vinify it hands-on with the same organic and biodynamic rigor they bring to their grand Volnay reds. Joie du Palais comes from a high-altitude parcel of nearly 70-year-old vines on crumbly pink granite, a third of it so steep it has to be plowed by horse. The result is cru Gamay with a Burgundian accent: elegant, silky, and closer to Pinot than most Beaujolais dares to be. This 2016 needed a few years to unwind and is now sitting in a lovely, mature sweet spot. Drink it for a fraction of what the family's Volnay commands.
