Domaine Michel Lafarge, Bourgogne Rouge, 2023

Every great domaine has an entry point, and Lafarge's Bourgogne Rouge is exactly the kind of wine that makes you understand why Volnay collectors are so devoted. Frédéric Lafarge — now joined by daughter Clothilde — farms biodynamically and brings the same obsessive care to this regional-level wine as to his premier crus. The fruit comes from younger vines and declassified plots within the Volnay and surrounding villages, unified in the same unhurried, large-old-oak style that defines the domaine. Think of it as a first conversation with one of Burgundy's most eloquent voices.