Envinate, Migan Chingao, 2023

Envinate are among the most beloved natural-wine producers in the world, four wine-school friends who set out to make fully alive, terroir-driven wines from forgotten Spanish corners. Migan comes from Tenerife in the Canary Islands, farmed on ancient ungrafted vines, and Chingao is the wilder, more exploratory bottling in the range. Expect everything we love about Envinate: pretty, energetic fruit, an entrancing nose, and that crunchy, savory volcanic snap, all made with whole clusters, wild yeast, and a barely-there hand in the cellar. Wine, first and foremost, is about pleasure, and Envinate never forget it.