Estate Argyos, Cyclades Atlantis White, 2024

Volcanic-island white from Santorini, where the vines grow ungrafted in pumice and ash and the grapes have been ripening since long before most of Europe planted a row. Estate Argyros, four generations in and the island's most significant vineyard holder, makes Atlantis White as its bright, breezy everyday bottling: mostly Assyrtiko rounded out with native Athiri and Aidani, fermented in steel to keep it crisp and clear. It's a fresh, salt-tinged white with the natural cut that Santorini's high-acid Assyrtiko is famous for. A delicious, well-priced introduction to one of the world's most distinctive wine islands. Serve it well chilled.