Fabre Montmayou, Malbec Gran Reserva Mendoza, 2023

Herve Joyaux Fabre came to Mendoza from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, part of a family of French wine negociants, and was so taken with the potential for Malbec that he bought up very old vineyards, some planted back in 1908, and built a chateau-style winery. That French sensibility shows in his wines, which marry Mendoza's power with Bordelais finesse. The Gran Reserva Malbec is the serious, age-worthy expression, drawn from his oldest vines and built for the long haul. Expect concentrated wild berry and plum fruit, a little floral lift and licorice spice, and a structured, polished finish. A big, generous Malbec with real elegance behind the muscle.