Familia Torres, Forcada Penedes Varietat Recuperada No. 23, 2022

Since the 1980s, Familia Torres has been hunting down grape varieties that nearly vanished after phylloxera swept through Catalonia—more than fifty rescued so far, and Forcada is the only one among them they consider capable of making a great white in a warming climate. This is that ancient grape reborn: a naturally high-acid, aromatic white from the Penedès hills, prized precisely because it ripens late and shrugs off heat and drought, making it a grape built for a warming world. Produced in tiny quantities, it's equal parts delicious wine and living archaeology. Drink it for the bright, saline snap—stay for the story of a grape brought back from the brink. Few whites this fresh come with this much history.