Francesco Rinaldi, Barolo Le Brunate, 1996

Francesco Rinaldi e Figli has been making Barolo since the 1800s, and they're one of the great traditionalist names that has somehow stayed under the radar. This is their Brunate, the famous cru straddling Barolo and La Morra, off vines around 350 meters up, aged for years in big Slavonian oak casks the old-fashioned way. At nearly three decades old, this is a fully mature back-vintage bottle from a respected vintage, so expect the dried-rose, tar, and forest-floor end of Nebbiolo rather than primary fruit. Sourcing and storage matter enormously at this age; treat it as the special-occasion pour it is. Decant gently and drink it soon. A genuine slice of classic Piedmont.