Hild, Elbling Zehnkommanull, 2024
Zehnkommanull means '10.0' — the wine ferments bone-dry and never tips above 10% alcohol, a quiet marvel made possible by very old vines on limestone giving full phenolic ripeness without ever building much sugar. Matthias Hild has been making this cuvée since 1986 from a tiny 0.15-hectare parcel of terraced Elbling in Wincheringen on the Obermosel, and total U.S. allocation runs about 30–50 cases a year. It's less a wine to sell than an act of cultural preservation: Elbling is one of Europe's oldest grapes, nearly extinct, and this bottling makes the strongest possible argument for its survival. Bone-dry, low-pH, crackling with chalky energy — a singular German white and one of the great values in serious wine.
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Description
Zehnkommanull means '10.0' — the wine ferments bone-dry and never tips above 10% alcohol, a quiet marvel made possible by very old vines on limestone giving full phenolic ripeness without ever building much sugar. Matthias Hild has been making this cuvée since 1986 from a tiny 0.15-hectare parcel of terraced Elbling in Wincheringen on the Obermosel, and total U.S. allocation runs about 30–50 cases a year. It's less a wine to sell than an act of cultural preservation: Elbling is one of Europe's oldest grapes, nearly extinct, and this bottling makes the strongest possible argument for its survival. Bone-dry, low-pH, crackling with chalky energy — a singular German white and one of the great values in serious wine.
