Jonathan Didier Pabiot, Pouilly-Fume Elisa, 2024
Pouilly-Fume is enjoying a quiet renaissance, and Jonathan Pabiot is one of the reasons. He took over the family estate young, converted everything to organic, and in 2016 became the first Demeter-certified biodynamic domaine in the appellation. Elisa, named for his daughter, is the entry into his range - drawn from younger vines (four to ten years old) planted across the family's three Pouilly soils: Kimmeridgian marl, chalky Portlandian limestone, and clay-silex on flint. Native-yeast fermentation, six to eight months on the lees in stainless and concrete, almost no sulfur. The result is precise, transparent, energetic Sauvignon Blanc - exactly what Pouilly-Fume should taste like and so rarely does.
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Pouilly-Fume is enjoying a quiet renaissance, and Jonathan Pabiot is one of the reasons. He took over the family estate young, converted everything to organic, and in 2016 became the first Demeter-certified biodynamic domaine in the appellation. Elisa, named for his daughter, is the entry into his range - drawn from younger vines (four to ten years old) planted across the family's three Pouilly soils: Kimmeridgian marl, chalky Portlandian limestone, and clay-silex on flint. Native-yeast fermentation, six to eight months on the lees in stainless and concrete, almost no sulfur. The result is precise, transparent, energetic Sauvignon Blanc - exactly what Pouilly-Fume should taste like and so rarely does.
