Joseph Roty, Marsannay Rouge, 2010

Here is mature red Burgundy from one of Gevrey-Chambertin's great traditional houses, at a price that lets you skip the cellaring entirely. Joseph Roty is best known for rare, pricey Gevrey Grand Crus, but Flatiron's Jeff snaps up the Marsannays whenever he finds them. This is the village-level Marsannay Rouge, from the northernmost stretch of the Cote d'Or where limestone soils slope east just shy of Dijon, the last vineyards before the city begins. The 2010 vintage produced classic, well-structured Burgundies, and at fifteen-plus years this one is drinking in its sweet spot. Roty's wines are polished and built to age, in the lineage of old-school domaines like Jouan and Chevillon.