Julian Haart, Riesling Moselle, 2025
Julian Haart is, by broad agreement, one of the most important young growers to emerge in the Mosel this century — a Piesport native who worked with Klaus Peter Keller and at Egon Muller before setting out on his own with a handful of hectares of very old vines on very steep slate. This is the Moselle, his appellation-level Riesling: not the first rung on his ladder, but the first one that really shows you the estate's hand. Organically farmed and off-dry, it's lit from within — the sweetness is there but weightless, strung on the kind of filigreed acidity the Mosel does better than anywhere. A serious wine at an unserious price, and the best argument going for working your way further up his hill.
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Julian Haart is, by broad agreement, one of the most important young growers to emerge in the Mosel this century — a Piesport native who worked with Klaus Peter Keller and at Egon Muller before setting out on his own with a handful of hectares of very old vines on very steep slate. This is the Moselle, his appellation-level Riesling: not the first rung on his ladder, but the first one that really shows you the estate's hand. Organically farmed and off-dry, it's lit from within — the sweetness is there but weightless, strung on the kind of filigreed acidity the Mosel does better than anywhere. A serious wine at an unserious price, and the best argument going for working your way further up his hill.
