Martin Woods, Mozaik Chardonnay, 2023

Evan Martin calls this the Meursault of his lineup, and the comparison fits. Martin Woods, tucked into the oak-forested coast-range foothills near McMinnville, draws Mozaik from two Willamette Valley sites with chalky, saline soils, blending them into the winery's roundest, richest white. It comes off softer and riper than his other Chardonnays, all sweet citrus and a classical, understated, almost marine finish. Built in the artisan, terroir-driven mold that has made this small Oregon winery a sommelier favorite, it splits the difference between New World generosity and Old World restraint. Serve it not too cold and give it air.