Mas Jullien, Vin de Pays de l'Herault Blanc, 2020

Olivier Jullien helped drag the Languedoc out of the bulk-wine era and turn it into one of France's most exciting regions, and his white is proof of how far the south can go. From carefully farmed vines around Jonquieres, it's a Mediterranean blend led by grenache blanc and carignan blanc with clairette, roussanne, viognier and a touch of chenin. Labeled only Vin de Pays de l'Herault, it overdelivers on its modest appellation and can age well over a decade. The 2020 is the younger of the two vintages here, tighter and more mineral, so give it air now or hold it.