Max Kilburg, Riesling Ohligsberg Grand Cru Trocken, 2024
One of the Mosel's most underrated Grand Crus, in the hands of a young perfectionist. Max Kilburg, a 20th-generation winemaker on the family's Geierslay estate, farms barely over a hectare of old-vine Grand Cru parcels, and Ohligsberg is the showpiece: a steep, south-facing site in Wintrich on weathered blue and gray slate that retains heat and drains hard. The Grand Cru Trocken — Grosses Gewächs-like in style, though not labeled as an official GG — is a tense, deep wine, often compared by Mosel growers themselves to Willi Schaefer's Domprobst for its taut, baroque architecture. The 2024 vintage was tiny but precise. Expect darker stone fruit, mineral depth, and the kind of cut and length that argues this is one of the great dry Rieslings of the river.
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Description
One of the Mosel's most underrated Grand Crus, in the hands of a young perfectionist. Max Kilburg, a 20th-generation winemaker on the family's Geierslay estate, farms barely over a hectare of old-vine Grand Cru parcels, and Ohligsberg is the showpiece: a steep, south-facing site in Wintrich on weathered blue and gray slate that retains heat and drains hard. The Grand Cru Trocken — Grosses Gewächs-like in style, though not labeled as an official GG — is a tense, deep wine, often compared by Mosel growers themselves to Willi Schaefer's Domprobst for its taut, baroque architecture. The 2024 vintage was tiny but precise. Expect darker stone fruit, mineral depth, and the kind of cut and length that argues this is one of the great dry Rieslings of the river.
