Naude, Werfdans Cinsault, 2017

Ian Naude works almost exclusively with old Cape bush vines, and Werfdans is his old-vine Cinsault from Darling, on the cool Atlantic side of the Western Cape. The fruit comes from vines planted in the late 1970s, vinified with almost no intervention beyond a touch of sulfur, then patiently held back: 2017 was only released six years after vintage, and arrives now at eight years on, fully in stride. It's everything great Cape Cinsault should be: pressed violets, wild strawberry, sour cherry, Turkish delight, and crushed granite, with a translucent palate that hides serious density and a 20-year horizon. Drink it cool with a good meal and don't waste any.