Philippe Delesvaux, Coteaux du Layon Anthologie, 1997 (500ml)
The companion bottle. Philippe Delesvaux produced his Anthologie cuvée only four times across forty years — 1995, 1996, 1997, and 2010 — each requiring the kind of full, perfect botrytis that only the rarest Layon vintages allow. 1997 is the third of those three consecutive miracle vintages that made his reputation, fully botrytized Chenin Blanc with extraordinary sugar concentration, bottled in 500ml for the cellar. Twenty-eight years on, this is in the same museum-piece register as the 1996 sibling but with its own signature — slightly more open, the candied citrus more orange than tangerine, the honey leaning toward acacia, and the structural acidity still vibrant under all that opulence. A finish-of-the-meal wine, or one to lay down further. They simply don't make these anymore.
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Description
The companion bottle. Philippe Delesvaux produced his Anthologie cuvée only four times across forty years — 1995, 1996, 1997, and 2010 — each requiring the kind of full, perfect botrytis that only the rarest Layon vintages allow. 1997 is the third of those three consecutive miracle vintages that made his reputation, fully botrytized Chenin Blanc with extraordinary sugar concentration, bottled in 500ml for the cellar. Twenty-eight years on, this is in the same museum-piece register as the 1996 sibling but with its own signature — slightly more open, the candied citrus more orange than tangerine, the honey leaning toward acacia, and the structural acidity still vibrant under all that opulence. A finish-of-the-meal wine, or one to lay down further. They simply don't make these anymore.
