Quinta de Lemos, Dao Tinto Dona Santana, 2008

We will cross every mountain for the wines of Quinta de Lemos. In Portugal's old and great Dao region, the Serra da Estrela and Serra do Caramulo ranges shield the vineyards from Atlantic damp on one side and inland heat on the other, and this estate sits high on a plateau to catch the full benefit of that balance. The Dona Santana is a Touriga Nacional-led red, filled out with Tinta Roriz, Jaen and Alfrocheiro, aged in French oak. This 2008 is a back-vintage gem with real maturity on it, the kind of aged Portuguese red that overdelivers. Decant and serve with a substantial meal.