Roagna, Barolo Pira, 2020

Pira is one of Barolo's most sought-after crus, and in Roagna's hands it becomes something transcendent. This fifth-generation estate—practicing organic/biodynamic viticulture since 2004—uses large Slavonian oak and extended maceration to produce profoundly traditional Nebbiolo. The Pira vineyard in Castiglione Falletto delivers wines of remarkable power and finesse: rose petal, tar, dried cherry, and an almost saline minerality. This 2020 will need patience—best from 2030 onward—but rewards with decades of evolution. Decant several hours if opening young.