Roc des Anges, Cotes Catalanes Blanc 'Iglesia Vella', 2023

Grenache Gris is one of wine's great underdogs — a grape most of the world blends away or rips out, and one that, in the right hands in the Roussillon, makes some of France's most gripping whites. Marjorie Gallet farms biodynamically in the Catalan foothills, in a region we've long argued is the most exciting corner of southern France precisely because nobody has priced it out yet. Iglesia Vella is her Grenache Gris bottling, and it does not behave like most whites: it's built on texture rather than fruit, with a stony, saline grip and a faint bitter twist on the finish that pulls you straight back for another sip. Bone dry and medium-bodied, it's a white that eats food for breakfast. Pour it in a proper glass and give it air — it unfolds slowly.