Roc des Anges, Cotes Catalanes Rouge 'Carignan 1903', 2023

The vines behind this wine were planted in 1903. They have outlasted two world wars, the collapse of the Roussillon's fortified-wine trade, and decades in which growers were paid subsidies to tear Carignan out of the ground. Marjorie Gallet farms them biodynamically and bottles them on their own, which takes some nerve — Carignan punishes generous yields and rewards exactly this kind of ancient, stingy vine. The result is dark and savory rather than jammy: black fruit, wild herbs, iron and olive, with a tannic spine that makes clear the wine isn't in any hurry. It's open for business now but will keep evolving; if you're drinking it tonight, decant.