Roc des Anges, Cotes Catalanes Rouge 'Reliefs', 2022

Reliefs is the French word for the shape of a landscape — the ridges, folds and slopes of it — and that's a fair description of what Marjorie Gallet is bottling here. Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, farmed biodynamically in the Catalan hills, come together into something dark-fruited and stony rather than sweet and sunny, which is the entire argument of the new Roussillon. There's warmth in the glass, but it's held in check by an earthy, herbal cut that keeps the wine firmly on the savory side. The 2022 is drinking well now: medium-bodied, dry, unfussy and honest. Give it fifteen minutes in the fridge and a hunk of bread.