Saldanha, Amontillado '#11', NV (500ml)

Here's a fascinating outlier: a Sherry-style fortified wine made not in Jerez but in South Africa, from the Badenhorst family's Saldanha Wine & Spirit Co., a specialist in these wines. Built in the Amontillado mold, it's aged first under flor and then oxidatively in cask for years, which is exactly how a true Amontillado earns its nutty, savory depth. Made mostly from Palomino, with Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Verdelho and Colombard, it lands dry and complex rather than sweet. Serve it lightly chilled or at cool room temperature; it's a wine for slow sipping, before or after a meal.