Stagiare Wines, It's Your Birthday (And all Your Enemies are Dead!), NV

Brent Mayeaux named his winery Stagiaire, French for the intern who does the grunt work, after apprenticing in cellars from Australia to the Jura, and this bottle is his idea of a party. Despite the celebratory name it's not a sparkler but a still, chillable light red, a zero-zero co-ferment of red and white grapes made with nothing added and nothing taken away. He built the project as a negociant, buying from organically farmed Northern California sites so he can put all his energy in the cellar. It's the definition of glou-glou: gulpable, low-stakes, and grinning. Give it a chill and don't overthink it.