Hirsch, Riesling "Gaisberg", 2015

The Gaisberg is a steep, southwest-facing slope of siliceous brown earth over weathered mica schist in the cool Kamptal, and it makes Riesling of laser focus and stony intensity. Johannes Hirsch farms it biodynamically, letting the site speak in a dry, mineral register that has nothing to do with the sweeter German style. This 2015 has moved fully into maturity, its fruit deepening toward candied citrus and gentle petrol while the vineyard's stony tension refuses to fade. It's a mature Gaisberg at a lovely, resolved stage, and it's ready to pour.